What to drink with lamprey?
Guilherme Corrêa Dip WSET
There can be no more idiosyncratic animal at the table. But one thing is certain: for many of those fearless people who worship lamprey, especially in its most classic form of preparation, à la Bordeaux, there is no hesitation: a Vinhão do Vinho Verde is irreplaceable. Is it?
I have to confess that, on my first trip to Portugal as a sommelier on a study trip, back in 2001, I tasted what was, to me at the time, the worst red wine of my life. A purple and opaque liquid, with hints of blackberry, but also of blood, quite vegetal, with a mouthfeel endowed with the most rustic and astringent tannins possible, highlighted by a sharp green acidity, with no mercy from any element on the side of smoothness, in that vile wine. I couldn't hide a grimace with each sip, and instead of my palate learning to buffer that merciless assault of aggression, the picture only got darker sip after sip. It was time for the lampreys, and when those pieces arrived at the table submerged in a dense, viscous and steaming liquid, almost like a dark chocolate fondue, the wine's metamorphosis left me astonished. These are those magical moments when we sommeliers, whose profession is one of the pillars of our work, realize and ask ourselves: how can a wine change so much when paired with a dish, and in this case, go from unpalatable to pleasant in just a few seconds? In the three years that I have lived in Portugal, I have been tasting Vinhões much more regularly, and I have already found some that are very good in their own right, not to mention the Sousões do Douro, which are even less inseparable from the “fatty” table. And in these three good years, I have never failed to make the most of the lamprey season. Another privilege of living here, in addition to the sardines, eels, shad and so many other wonders that come from our rivers and seas.
A FISH WITHOUT EQUAL
Unlike eels, which live in freshwater or brackish water rivers and, as soon as they reach sexual maturity, migrate to the distant Sargasso Sea, where they reproduce and die, lampreys do the opposite: they are anadromous, as opposed to the former, which are catadromous. In other words, in the lamprey cycle, there is a larval phase in which the amocetes remain buried in Portuguese rivers for up to five years, before undergoing metamorphosis and migrating to their marine habitat. They live for approximately two years on the continental shelf, where they feed on the blood of host fish and cetaceans. The term “hematophagous parasite” is a good epithet for a relentless and terrifying vampire of the sea! They return to the rivers, approximately 80 to 90 cm long, especially in February and March, to mate and complete their life cycle.
A parenthesis is made here to explain that in Portugal there are 6 species of lampreys: sea lamprey (Petromyzon marinus), the river lamprey, the brook lamprey, the silverside lamprey, the turnip lamprey and the Sado lamprey. The one that interests us for this article is the sea lamprey, by far the most consumed in Portugal and other western European countries where it chooses to fulfill its cruel destiny of dying, either immediately after breeding or cooked in its own blood.
PARAMETERS FOR HARMONIZATION
An important difference from eels, which are consumed mainly in the adult freshwater yellow eel stage, with all the fat stored for their long journey of up to 6 thousand kilometers to the Sargasso Sea, lampreys are appreciated after their long return from the seas to the rivers, during which some of the accumulated fats have been expelled in the process.This fact does not exempt our cyclostomes, as the circular-mouthed fish without jaws are called, from being easily classified as very fatty fish. In this category, the lipid content is over 8% of the body weight, and sea lampreys have approximately 18% fat in their edible part. This is definitely a key parameter for pairing wines well with our star of the season. Although we do not need, at least theoretically, a lightning bolt of acidity in the wine, as in the case of eels, which are mega-equipped for the Atlantic voyage, with up to 28% fat in their nutritional composition.
Another extremely important parameter is that all this fat is distributed approximately as follows: 56% monounsaturated fatty acids, 38% saturated fatty acids and 6% polyunsaturated fatty acids. We have already discussed in this space in Revista de Vinhos, previously, that polyunsaturated fish fat poses great difficulties for red wines and others with iron levels above 5 milligrams per litre, giving that aggressive “fishy flavour” to the aromas and finish. The fact that lamprey fat is mainly monounsaturated and saturated – thank goodness we only eat them seasonally – ensures that reds can be paired, at least in this regard. But what about iodine, which is terrible for metallising tannins? Although they have a little more iodine than eels, after two years of marine life, lampreys taste more of rivers, land and blood than of the sea. Its moderate iodine content also allows the use of red wines at the table, without any major risks involved.
Finally, and perhaps the most important premise to take into consideration, is the aromatic volume of classic lamprey preparations. In short, a bomb of flavors! The garlic wine, which is normally composed of red wine, blood, garlic, pepper, cloves, bay leaves and parsley, among several variations, then stewed together with the lamprey and reduced until it acquires a rich, velvety and unctuous consistency, will hardly dialogue with a white. Its eloquence will silence the overwhelming majority, except for some very structured whites, with good alcohol content, and preferably some or even a lot of fermentation, as in the case of “orange wines”. The very color aspect of a lamprey stew already inexorably refers to a red. If it is a red wine with an earthy character, with some complexity, notable aromatic volume, with excellent acidity to contrast with the solid fat of the lamprey pieces, an alcohol level and tannin content high enough to combat the rich unctuousness of the sauce, in addition to a persistent and earthy finish, then we are dignifying this delicacy of the highest epicurean level.
AROUND THE WORLD
Unfortunately, one of the delicacies most appreciated by the Romans, sung about by the poet Horace in his satires from 30 BC and present in practically the entire “old peninsula” at the time, has practically disappeared from Italian tables, reflecting its near extinction in its rivers and the current fishing bans.
In addition to Portugal, two places maintain the tradition of preparing lamprey in this world of rivers so impacted by human actions. Galicia in Spain and Bordeaux in France. To the north of Minho, the tradition is very similar to ours; lamprey “a la bordelesa” is the most celebrated recipe in the region, although with some variations, and may include more “vegetables in sofrito” and sometimes marrow to enrich the already millionaire final sauce. In season, they also offer smoked lampreys, then rolled and cooked with various fillings, or baked inside a “timbal” like a pie, or served with rice or “noodles”, or fried or “rebozada” with egg and flour, or even grilled and served with raw onions.In Arbo, the “lamprey capital” on the northern banks of the Minho and located in the Condado de Tea sub-area of the Rías Baixas DO, it is customary to pair cyclostomes with the very Atlantic local reds based on Caíño Tinto, Sousón, Espadeiro, Mencia and Brancellao. Some experts prefer slightly more robust reds, albeit very fresh and mineral, from the Bierzo or Ribeiro DOs, which makes perfect sense.
Historically revered (and inevitably repudiated) in France, with many recipes dating back to the Middle Ages, cited by thinkers, poets and food critics such as Curnonsky, who enjoyed its aphrodisiac powers, the country has immortalised the most classic of lamprey recipes: “à la bordelaise” or Bordeaux style. A perfect way to reveal the flavours and the fatty, “fondant” texture of the animal in an equally “moelleux” sauce, which contains the vampire’s blood. In this original version, the blood is not added to the garlic vine, but rather to make the “liaison” at the end of cooking. Other particularities include the strong presence of leeks to balance the sauce with its sweetness, the aromaticity of the “jambon”, the “bouquet garni” and a splash of Armagnac or Cognac. French sommeliers invariably pair this classic with a regional red with a beautiful load of silky tannins, neither too young nor too evolved. Above all, wines from the Péssac-Leognan or Graves appellation, from châteaux such as Haut-Bailly, Malartic-Lagravière, La Louvière, Pape Clément or even a Haut-Brion “hors concours”. But wines from Haut-Médoc in general, and from Margaux and St.Julien in particular, are also very successful. Some people sacrifice regional pairing in favour of a Chinon or another Cabernet Franc from the Loire, and the results can be promising too.
IN PORTUGAL
Luckily for us, lampreys are equally delicious on our tables and have been part of our oldest culinary compendiums for many centuries. And it would not be an exaggeration to say that when someone abroad dreams or has a nightmare about lamprey on the table, the first country that comes to mind is most likely Portugal, even before France or Spain. And even though our most iconic recipe is inspired by the ingenious Bordeaux recipe, it exudes an indelible regional wisdom. In our Bordeaux recipe, the visual aspect and melting texture are very similar to theirs, except for the leek, including the bread croutons on the side, although there they prefer to grate a garlic on top.
For me, the big difference is in the flavor, as we use a touch of vinegar to prevent the lampreys' blood from coagulating, while they use local red wine or Cognac. That acidic aftertaste that accompanies our Bordeaux sauce is also the result of using red Vinho Verde in the garlic vine. Some even prefer to add a little “mature red” to the marinade, so that it doesn't become too aggressive. A well-made Portuguese Bordeaux-style lamprey must necessarily have that sharp acidity resounding against the background of its velvety sauce. For this ideal point, choosing reds as described above, with great freshness to help in the task of emulsifying and detoxifying the meat's fat, works well, although this sommelier thinks that the acidity and aggressive tannins of a rustic Vinhão may be exaggerated. But worse is when I come across some very acidic Bordeaux sauces, in which case it seems as if the harmonization by contrast has already been carried out by the cook, in the pan, a real sin.
TESTS IN THE DRAWER - www.ogaveto.com
For many professionals and gastronomes in general, the restaurant O Gaveto de Matosinhos is the greatest temple to eat knee-deep lampreys in Portugal.I love practically everything that is served with care by João Carlos in this restaurant, from the coastal shrimp to the lobster rice, and the lampreys are exquisite.
For our test of the month, I tasted three wines with the lamprey à bordalesa from O Gaveto: the typical one, an alternative one and an out-of-the-box one that I had been wanting to pair with this dish for a while now due to its profile, it was the sommelier's choice!
Green Wine Vinhao Old Curtain 2021 - Typical. A Vinhão as it should be, explosive, an ultra-vibrant juice of blackberries macerated in granite, herbaceous, with notes of blood and stone. Overflowing acidity, rustic tannins, all enhanced by a light carbon needle. Zero smoothness in the balance. I have no doubt that this wine washed the dish. This is the drinkable detergent, it washes lamprey, Brazilian feijoada and any other fatty and unctuous dish that comes along. But what about the harmony? That feeling that wine and food go hand in hand until the end of life? That's another thing, this harmony seemed to me more like a voracious and ephemeral passion than a good marriage.
Sousão Unoaked Divina Lampreia Vallado 2019 - An alternative. Here, Sousão, as expected, had its sharp edges polished, which did it a lot of good. Its core of black fruit was very beautiful, and the impressions of the warmer fruit were well contrasted by a different minerality, pronounced but not corrosive acidity, and a more controlled mouthfeel. It went very well with our Bordeaux, here we can talk about a marriage. The rich sauce was dried out by the tannins and the 13.5% alcohol.
Horseback – Barbera d'Alba Vigna Cuculo Superiore – 2021 - Out of the box. As a gluttonous sommelier, I always dreamed of pairing one of Italy's champion wines for washing down greasy dishes with our lampreys. I just didn't expect it to turn out to be the best of the tasting. It was impressive how this classic Barbera blended with the sauce, and exposed the earthy side of the fish with its profile that always brings black fruits and earthy impressions. The acidity was just right to overcome the barrier of the synergistic enhancement of the acidity present in the sauce, and reach the heart of the lamprey pieces, cleansing its richness of flavor with each bite, and flowing along with it to a happy ending, compensating for the cruel fate of the lampreys when they go up the rivers for the last time.