Wine and Olive Oil Pairing | A Technical Guide to Perfect Balance
Wine and Olive Oil: How to Pair Them Correctly
Olive oil is truly a unique oil — magical, almost divine. It has accompanied humankind since time immemorial. When olive trees arrived in the Mediterranean Basin from Asia Minor some 6,000 years ago, the fragrant oil of their fruit became the fluid that lubricated the engine of every civilization around it. Indispensable to the Mediterranean diet, olive oil has long transcended its culinary role, transforming itself into medicine, fuel, and an essential element in religious ceremonies and rituals.
Yet it is at the table that the oil of those spectacular silver-green trees truly reaches sublimation — at least for us devoted gastronomes. Always growing alongside the vine in its preferred habitat, olive trees and grain once formed the Mediterranean trinity. It is no coincidence that these three wonders of nature shaped by human ingenuity — wine, olive oil and bread — create something close to a divine union when brought together.
Olive Oil in Harmony
With some understanding of wine and food pairing techniques, it is possible to refine and expand our choices — without forgetting that a simple piece of bread dipped in golden oil and followed by a generous sip of wine almost always works. Rarely does that marriage end in divorce.
Recently, I have observed attempts to match olive oils and wines based on aromatic affinity: pairing a pungent, herbaceous and peppery oil with a cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc, echoing its methoxypyrazine-driven green notes and incisive acidity; or combining a riper, denser and fruitier oil with a wine of similar profile — perhaps a generous Alentejo red, if we bring the example back to Portugal.
It is also common to find recommendations suggesting that, regardless of colour, wines governed by acidity are best, on the assumption that “acidity cleanses fat.”
Without dismissing these increasingly common views, it may be worthwhile to propose another way of approaching olive oil in the context of pairing — one that can also be tested and debated.
Understanding the Essential Parameters of Olive Oil
Let us briefly examine its fundamental characteristics.
Olive oil is a vegetable oil composed mainly of monounsaturated triglycerides (formed by the esterification of three fatty acid molecules with one glycerol molecule), with relatively short chains that ensure its liquid state at room temperature. It also contains small amounts of free fatty acids, glycerol, flavour compounds, polyphenols, sterols, and other minor elements.
This small non-lipid fraction — roughly 2% of its composition — is crucial from both an organoleptic standpoint (colour, aroma and flavour) and a chemical one, as it protects the oil from oxidation. Aromatically, aldehydes such as hexanal play a prominent role, contributing “green” notes of tomato leaf, artichoke and freshly cut grass, while esters provide fruity impressions such as green apple.
Regarding acidity, an important clarification is needed. While attending a sensory analysis class in Italy and visiting a traditional Tuscan frantoio, I learned that olive oil acidity is not something tasters perceive sensorially — it lies below our detection threshold. The natural acidity of olive oil, expressed as free oleic acid, is simply a technical measure of purity for extra virgin olive oil, determined in laboratory analysis. Industrially refined oils may also present acidity levels below 0.5%, achieved chemically during production.
In short, acidity should not be considered when discussing the sensory qualities of olive oil — nor when pairing it with wine. Choosing an olive oil based solely on its acidity percentage would be akin to choosing a wine purely by its alcohol level: it offers no guarantee of quality.
What should be considered, however, are bitterness and pungency. These depend on cultivar, terroir and production methods. Typically, olives reach peak polyphenol concentration shortly before full ripening. These polyphenols and glycosides contribute the oil’s pleasant bitterness, structure and peppery character — sometimes so intense that it provokes a cough when tasting high-polyphenol oils rich in aglycones.
A fine example of balance within this spectrum is the Cortes de Cima Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, whose expression combines vegetal freshness, restrained bitterness and elegant pungency. This profile makes it particularly versatile when paired with structured wines, without creating excessive tension with firm tannins.
Pairing Technique
As discussed above, olive oil remains liquid when drizzled over finished dishes and becomes even more fluid when used in cooking, including deep-frying. Sommeliers therefore treat it primarily as a source of mouth-coating richness.
It is crucial to distinguish between liquid fats, which create a slippery sensation of oiliness, and solid fats such as butter, toro sashimi or pork sausage, which produce a pasty, coating effect.
For this reason, we must be cautious with the statement “acidity cleanses fat.” Which fat? Liquid oil or solid fat? If the fat is liquid, we must seek elements in the wine that dry or reduce that oiliness. Acidity stimulates salivation, increasing moisture in the mouth rather than reducing it.
Fortunately, two elements can counterbalance olive oil’s richness: tannin and alcohol.
Tannins, present in red wines and to a lesser extent in structured whites and orange wines, create a drying sensation by binding with proteins such as mucin, which lubricates our saliva. In long-cooked dishes enriched with olive oil and other fats, producing deeply flavourful and unctuous sauces, a powerful, firm and structured red can create magnificent harmony. The tannins counteract the richness of the dish, while the richness softens the tannins — a case where one plus one equals three.
However, tannins are not always appropriate. A highly tannic red served with salt cod à lagareiro may develop metallic notes when confronted with iodised marine flavours intensified by curing. Nor would such wines suit salads, grilled fish or delicate preparations dressed with olive oil.
In these cases, alcohol becomes a useful tool. Ethanol, the primary product of fermentation, contains a non-polar molecular component capable of dissolving fats. Returning to salt cod à lagareiro, served in a shimmering sea of olive oil, a robust Encruzado from Dão — preferably above 14% alcohol and with minimal oak influence — can create a particularly compelling pairing.
Conclusion
Mitigating the oiliness olive oil imparts to dishes is the central principle in achieving successful wine pairings. This can be addressed through tannin structure or alcohol content.
Secondly, attention should be paid to high-polyphenol oils — those more bitter, astringent and pungent, such as certain Verdeal oils from Trás-os-Montes. Their firmness could clash with and amplify the tannins of a red wine. Fortunately, these herbaceous and peppery oils are most often used in salads, vegetable dishes, soups and fish — contexts where structured whites relying on alcohol rather than tannin offer a safer path.
Ultimately, the aromas of olive oil play a secondary role in pairing. Fine-tuning by matching aromatic profiles — fruity with fruity, herbaceous with herbaceous, spicy with spicy — can be beneficial. But the final aromatic profile of the dish, not merely the oil itself, must always guide the pairing decision.
Frequently Asked Questions About Wine and Olive Oil
Does olive oil pair well with wine?
Yes, but successful pairing requires considering the mouth-coating richness olive oil creates. Acidity alone may not provide balance; tannins or higher alcohol levels can be decisive.
Does acidity in wine cleanse olive oil fat?
Not necessarily. With liquid fats such as olive oil, acidity increases salivation and does not reduce oiliness. Tannins and alcohol tend to be more effective.
Which wine should I choose for dishes rich in olive oil?
For structured, slow-cooked dishes, reds with firm tannins work well. For delicate preparations such as fish or salads dressed with olive oil, structured whites with higher alcohol levels often create better balance.