Hirsch Zöbing Ried Gaisberg Kammern Grüner Veltliner 2021

“Possibly the most consistent elite producer in Kamptal, if not in all of Austria,” according to one of the world’s most influential sommeliers, Rajat Parr. The Hirsch family has been in Kammern for 500 years, and the estate has been farmed by the family since 1878, now in the fifth generation. Biodynamics is taken very seriously by Johannes here, and the style of the wines is one of diaphanous purity, representing some of the country’s finest crus, such as the fabulous Heiligenstein, with its primary rock, granite and gneiss soils. How far can Riesling and Grüner Veltliner go in Austria? The answer is Hirsch.

Wine:

Certified biodynamic RESPEKT. The slopes of this vineyard extend eastwards from the Heiligenstein mountain; they have a distinctly southern aspect and an average gradient of about 11%. The lower areas have highly calcareous chernozem soils with fragments of crystalline rocks derived from the underlying loess, which in turn overlie the gravel beds. The upper parts of the slopes consist predominantly of gneiss, with occasional remnants of loess. The overlying soil is a calcareous brown earth with varying proportions of coarse material.

Harvest in October. Whole bunch pressing, fermentation with only natural yeasts. Maturation takes place in both stainless steel tanks and large barrels. The wine rests on its lees for around 6 months.

Jancis Robinson: 17.5+/20 points
"As with all the Hirsch wines, the balance and inner, centering calm lend a mesmerising stillness. Nuanced complexity, without even the hint of a flex."

Biodynamic certificate (Biodynamic RESPONSE)