What to drink with roasted piglet ?
“Cabidela as a starter, fried meat as a first course, suckling pig à Bairrada as a main course and cabidela for dessert, at Mugasa. Repeat from the hood”. This is the standard answer to anyone who asks me about the most memorable gastronomic experience with the fabulous Portuguese cuisine that I have had since moving to this greedy country. Eating an impeccably executed suckling pig from Bairrada is something transcendental, which awakens the atavistic instincts of roasting an entire animal over wood, and also a multimodal, synesthetic experience, in which all the senses are employed and amalgamate to create a complex and fascinating whole. The golden and glassy appearance of the skin, on the pink meat that melts and effortlessly falls off the bones, the smoky aroma of the wood, the Maillard reaction of the proteins and carbohydrates subjected to the intense heat of the ovens, the lard flavored with garlic and pepper, the intoxicating flavor and the divine texture, fatty and unctuous, crispy and creamy, sweet and spicy. And the Bairrada all around, with its Atlantic wines of clay and chalk, of acidity and tannins, sparkling or still, but always with a strong character and, not surprisingly, sharply gastronomic.
The regional and classic pairing with a sparkling wine from the region is a given. But from a technical point of view, why does this combination work so well? Are there other possibilities to consider outside the regional scope? Some of the best wine and food professionals in the country helped me with these answers.
THE THEORY
As we discussed in Wine Magazine No. 341 regarding pairing with pork, the first adjustment we have to make to the wine we choose is its structure. Pork is located in the central zone of the structural scale, and can range from the light level of a suckling pig loin to the full-bodied level of a neck of black country pig. In our object of study for this article, suckling pig à Bairrada fed (at least theoretically) only on mother's milk, the flavor of the meat is delicate, milky and sweet. However, its intense seasoning based on garlic, lots of black pepper, parsley, bacon, lard and bay leaves, added to the wood-fired preparation, considerably increases the structural levels of the dish, and we must look for equivalent values of taste and smell intensity in wines.
We also discuss the pleasant dialogue between pork meat, rich in active ester molecules from the lactone group, with wines aged in oak or scented with coconut, tonka and yellow stone fruits such as apricot, also marked by lactones.
Finally, regarding the texture of a well-made Bairrada-style suckling pig, we have a meat that is very thick with fat, melting in the mouth. Its glorious presence on the palate gives rise to a tactile sensation of plastering and pastiness, of solid fat, which for the purposes of wine-food pairing, should be contrasted with the acidity of the wine, or its flavor and/or effervescence. These elements that weigh on the side of “hardness” in the balance of the wine and that act synergistically are fundamental to promoting a stimulating pairing with dishes marked by the presence of solid fat. Acidity encourages salivation on the palate, which is crucial to help emulsify the fat and facilitate its dispersion and cleaning. The pungency of the carbon dioxide in sparkling wines also acts to cleanse and degrease the mouth, and the flavor contrasts with the sensation of softness and tendency towards sweetness of dishes rich in solid fat.
When analyzing this theoretical framework, it is easy to understand why the great white wines from Bairrada, including those made in oak, are so successful with the region's fabulous suckling pig. The same structural and aromatic level, excellent acidity from the Atlantic climate and limestone flavor.Likewise, we can see the excellence of the classic pairing with sparkling wines of such character, both white and rosé. Accompanied by a good sparkling wine to detoxify the fat from the suckling pig, you can eat twice the portion! The very powerful and tannic reds from Bairrada, in turn, can display a structure greater than the structure of the dish, overpowering it. For so many tannins and alcohol we need more unctuousness, or liquid fat, than solid fat, and here a rich suckling pig giblet would better complement these great reds from Baga.
“IT’S US”
I had the invaluable contribution of some of the best sommeliers in Portugal to shed some light on the subject of which wine to choose with this emblem of our regional cuisine. The answers were incredible and varied, covering classic and even provocative choices. It is worth taking this precious guide with you on your next forays into the sacred land of suckling pig.
Rudolph Tristan
Regarding the suckling pig, I think it is important to mention its oiliness/fattiness, the cooking point and the accompaniments. If it is fried potatoes, it will be more oily, giving the combination a more intense flavour. If it is boiled potatoes, it will help with the starch that is more present in the combination, removing some of the fat from the combination; on the other hand, it will "fill" the dish a little more. Assuming that it is suckling pig with fried potatoes, I think a sparkling wine would go well, as we have the gas that helps to cleanse, as well as the acidity of the white wine. Sparkling wines that may contain the Baga or Bical grape variety, I think would be the most suitable. If it is red, a wine from the region, a combination by terroir; Baga grape variety, without oak, and the serving temperature should be between 14º/15º degrees to bring out some of the acidity and freshness of the grape variety. As for the boiled potatoes, I would recommend a white sparkling wine or a white Bical grape with a lot of minerality.
Edgar Alendouro
There will be many good wines to accompany a beautiful suckling pig from Bairrada! I especially like a white wine made by Luis Pato, Cercial, Cândida plot of the Formal vineyard, 2015! Elegance, freshness and a fantastic minerality make this wine a wonderful companion to suckling pig!
Ivo Peralta - Sommelier Jncquoi (Lisbon)
Going straight to the wine and with the rise of Blanc des Noirs, I would opt for a sparkling wine of this style, perhaps the Hibernus Cuvée Noir Brut Nature Vintage 2015. A wine made from Baga and Touriga Nacional, it has fine bubbles and a medium-persistent mousse to cut through the fat of the suckling pig, softening all the spicy side with which it is cooked, and revealing all the more buttery side it has. Generally speaking, Blanc de Noir usually has more structure in the mouth, a precise acidity that helps to cut through all the intensity and that helps all the meat "melt" on your palate.
David Teixeira - Sommelier at the Casa da Calçada (Amarante)
I suggest the Quinta da Curia Clefs D´or Red 2010 from Bairrada, made from Merlot, Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon, with an alcohol content of 13%. It is a wine with an intense ruby colour, with a combination of red fruits reminiscent of blueberries, blackberries and black plums on the palate. It immediately impresses with its liveliness, muscular and intense, revealing great ageing potential, immediately indicating that we are in the presence of a great wine.
Andre Figuinha
I think that in this case we should not stray too far from culture and history, and should also promote the region and its wines. Although it can be paired with a variety of wines, in the case of whites rich in minerality and reds with a strong acidity, the traditional option will always be a sparkling wine.What I like as points of harmony are the crunchiness, the spicy flavor and the mouthfeel. My choice would be Luiz Costa Brut nature 2015 from Bairrada.
Abel Almeida - Sommelier
Being a native of Bairrada and an unconditional fan of our great Baga grape variety, I recently had the opportunity to experience one of the best gastronomic pairings anyone could ever hope to have. During our visit to Sidónio de Sousa and Paulo Sousa's house in Sangalhos, during lunch we were treated to a fantastic rice with suckling pig blood, which was very well seasoned and spicy (as we like so much in this area) highlighting all the gum that the cracks in the suckling pig would give to the rice, and the famous roast suckling pig from our friend Ricardo Nogueira (Mugasa). So, it was clear that we needed a great Baga to make a perfect pairing (since we were in the house of one of Bairrada's greatest classics). Eng. Paulo Sousa, reading our minds, presented us with the 97 and 91 garrisons, well, what a moment!! The 91 is showing why this year is a Vintage in Bairrada, with an unparalleled freshness that is quite characteristic of Sidónio wines, also highlighting the pyrazine and the earthy nose that we value so much, coming from our clay, and also the fruit present in a wine that is 27 years old. But the choice of the day for me was the 97 garrafeira, making a perfect pairing with the cabidela and the suckling pig. The 97 still shows us its strength and exuberance, with notes of garnet, Indian ink and intense, with just a slight brick halo, on the nose showing Bairrada, freshness, pyrazine, eucalyptus, wet autumn grass, dark fruit mixed with mint, nuances of tobacco and depth, on the palate matching the nose and making us smile proudly after the "aftertaste" of a Baga like this, muscular, full-bodied, intense, persistent full, fixed tannins asking for food and still in the bottle, spicy, super fresh giving it elegance coming from vineyards over 90 years old. When paired, it was incredible how this 97 baga managed to "soften" the spicy condiments present in the cabidela and the suckling pig, it reminded us of a ballet dance between them in the mouth, tannin and acidity shining beautifully with the gum and fat of the suckling pig, marrying perfectly, making a perfect pair, the earthiness of the clay and limestone highlighting the crispy skin of the suckling pig roasted in wood-fired brick ovens, practically forcing us to eat and drink more, becoming addictive. These are the moments that make us like Baga and the local cuisine even more, which is something that we will never forget.
Nelson Warrior
In my opinion, to best pair with Bairrada suckling pig, I recommend a Brut sparkling wine. or Brut Nature, or a still white. In the first case it should have a lot of acidity and a constant bubble, preferably in my opinion something young and fresh with good structure in the mouth, slightly fruity. In the case of the second, a white from the region that is a few years old, perhaps with the Cercial or Bical grape variety. It should be a wine with some viscosity on the palate (aged in wood or skin maceration), with the salinity of the soils typical of the region it represents and that has plenty of acidity and preferably a low alcohol content (12%, 12.5%).
Mico Drumond - Sommelier at 100 Maneiras (Lisbon)
First of all, there is something I always take into account when recommending a wine to accompany Leitão à moda da Bairrada (also because we have the Ljubomir version on the menu), which is the season we are in. While during the spring and summer I choose a rosé, during the autumn and winter I prefer to pair it with a red.Let me explain:
The elements that I consider essential in a Leitão da Bairrada are the toasted skin, the succulent fat of the meat and the spices in the sauce. Everything else (the garnish) changes from restaurant to restaurant but invariably beats the crispy sliced fries, salad and the traditional slice of orange. My choice of a rosé in warmer weather is based on the fact that I want to present a wine that helps to cleanse the spices and adds the "berry" factor to the dish. It needs to have some volume in the mouth (otherwise it will be lost on the palate), medium acidity and some length. On a hot day, adding tannins or spices to a meal that is already strong doesn't make sense to me. As for the wine, I would choose Quinta do Poço do Lobo Reserva Rosé as it meets the criteria described above. Regarding colder weather, there are many options, but here I prefer to go for a red wine from the Baga grape variety with some length, medium acidity and some earthy, spicy and smoky notes. In this case, the fruit to be added will be darker (cherries), the spices and the smokiness of the wine create a link to the dish and we continue to have the freshness to cleanse the excesses. The earthy side of the wine gives a more "regional" character to the pairing without clashing with the other elements. My wine of choice would be a Luís Pato Vinha Pan that is over 10 years old. It is a wine that comes from a century-old vineyard that guarantees a classic and deep Baga.
Manuel Moreira - Sommelier-consultant, wine-educator, Wine Magazine
For me, Bairrada suckling pig has several characteristics that determine the profile of the wine to be paired with it. Not to mention that there is variation between the different cuts. Normally, the different cuts are served on a platter so that the diversity of flavors can be appreciated. In my opinion, the determining characteristics are: medium/high flavor intensity with medium complexity; the ratio between meat and fat in some parts; the ratio between skin and the layer of fat immediately below; the crispy and crunchy effect of the skin; protein with little connective tissue that generally makes the meat "tender". Taking this into account, I generally prefer wines with good structure, moderate body, lively and fruity acidity, in the case of reds, which have firm, youthful and round tannins and a fresh profile. In whites, the range can extend from fruity to some with barrels, but it must be subtle. Freshness is a fundamental condition. It does not need to be very acidic.
The less complex sparkling wines, but with creamy mousse and good fruit in the mid-palate. Rosés with good structure, in a more contemporary style, fresh and with a richer flavor, especially of fruit. Favorite regions for whites: Alvarinho, Monção and Melgaço; Dão, based on Encruzado; Bairrada, with Bical and Maria Gomes; Colares white. Reds from a "cooler" climate: Dão, Bairrada with less austere Baga, Beira Interior, Douro from the high altitudes and less alcohol. Sparkling wines: Bruto Reserva or Super Reserva. Baga Sparkling wine without a doubt. Polished red sparkling wines. Rosés: Covela, Redoma, Dona Maria, Quinta Nova Our Lady of Mount Carmel.
Pedro Ferreira - Sommelier
For me, suckling pig always depends a lot on how it is prepared, the sauces and the garnish that accompanies it. As a rule, I try to pair it with a wine from the region where the main dish comes from. My suggestion is Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira Tinto 2015. I chose it because it is a fantastic year for reds in Portugal, from a unique terroir, an elegant Baga from old vines in the best clay-limestone soils in the region, where the balance of tannins, body, freshness and fruit of the wine are perfectly suited to the intensity of suckling pig à Bairrada. I suggest tasting the wine at 15ºC in a Burgundy glass.