Hirsch Ried Heiligenstein Rotfels Zöbing Riesling 2021

“Possibly the most consistent elite producer in Kamptal, if not in all of Austria,” according to one of the world’s most influential sommeliers, Rajat Parr. The Hirsch family has been in Kammern for 500 years, and the estate has been farmed by the family since 1878, now in the fifth generation. Biodynamics is taken very seriously by Johannes here, and the style of the wines is one of diaphanous purity, representing some of the country’s finest crus, such as the fabulous Heiligenstein, with its primary rock, granite and gneiss soils. How far can Riesling and Grüner Veltliner go in Austria? The answer is Hirsch.

Wine:
Certified biodynamic RESPEKT. The terrace, which faces south and southwest, has a unique geological history that has been preserved in this particular area. The outcrop of the bed consists of a reddish-brown sandstone with a high feldspar content, coarse conglomerates and small sediments. These sediments were formed approximately 250-280 million years ago under arid conditions in lakes, ponds and ephemeral rivers. The rocks contain fossilized plants and gravels with volcanic rhyolite clichés. Loess is only preserved in a few places, within shallow depressions.

Harvested in October. Full pressing, fermentation with natural yeasts only. Maturation taking place in both stainless steel tanks and large oak barrels. The wine rested on its lees until mid-May before being bottled at the end of July and released in September 2021.

Points: 96 Robert Parker
"This is pure, saline and stony, very intense and complex on the nose, and that goes straight to the palate. This is dense, lush and generous but fine and saline, pure and finessed and with so much substance, length and tension on the finish. It is a spectacular new Heiligenstein from a plot that might be promoted to a grand cru (Grosse Lage) one day. Cautious rating."

Biodynamic certificate (Biodynamic RESPONSE)